Tuesday, 31 March 2015

Far from penance - Chocolate olive oil cake

 it's like a fudgy brownie

In one of my recent blog posts I told you in no uncertain terms that I no longer give up chocolate for Lent.Forty days and forty nights without chocolate,chance would be a fine thing. In another recent post, I enthused about olive oil cakes and looked forward to experimenting with a Chocolate olive oil cake.Well here it is, and how far from penitence could it be? Lent is all but over but this is still sheer indulgence, as if chocolate never was? It's like a fudgy brownie, and talking of chocolate,surprise surprise this is a Nigella recipe. I seems it has been chopped and changed and messed around in order to accomodate  coeliacs and gluten free diets alike,but at the end of the day you´re going to be well pushed to find a better and more adaptable recipe.Knees up right proper moshing,here is the be-all and end-all chocolate olive oil cake recipe.The gluten free version is slightly heavier with the almonds - though not in a bad way - so if you want a lighter crumb, rather than a boom squish interior, and are not making the cake for the gluten-intolerant, then replace the 150g ground almonds / 1½ cups almond meal with 125g plain flour / ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour.To make it more of an occasion, serve it still warm from the oven with some fresh strawberries or raspberries and an indulgent dollop of cardamom requeijao cream.Alternatively serve it with a scoop of home made mascarpone ice cream.

Chocolate Olive Oil Cake
    2/3 cup regular olive oil, plus more for greasing cake pan
    6 tablespoons good-quality unsweetened cocoa powder
    1/2 cup boiling water
    2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
    1 1/2 cups almond meal or 3/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
    1/2 teaspoon baking soda
    Pinch of salt
    1 cup superfine sugar
    3 large eggs

      Preheat oven to 325°F. Grease a 9-inch springform cake pan with a little oil and line base of pan with parchment paper.
      Sift cocoa powder into a bowl and whisk in boiling water until you have a smooth, chocolaty, still runny (but only just) paste. Whisk in vanilla extract and set aside to let cool.
      In a small bowl, combine almond meal (or flour) with baking soda and a pinch of salt.
      Put sugar, olive oil and eggs into bowl of a freestanding mixer with a paddle attachment (or use other bowl and whisk). Beat vigorously until mixture is pale-primrose, aerated, thickened and creamy, about 3 minutes.
      Turn down mixer speed a little and beat in cocoa mixture. Slowly add almond-meal mixture.
      Turn off mixer. Scrape down sides of bowl and stir a little with a spatula. Pour batter into prepared cake pan. Bake until sides of cake are set and very center, on top, still looks slightly damp, 40 to 45 minutes. A cake tester should come up mainly clean but with a few sticky chocolate crumbs clinging to it.
      Let cake cool in its pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Ease sides of cake with a small metal spatula and spring cake out of pan. Leave to cool completely or serve warm with ice cream.

      Thursday, 12 March 2015

      Lemon olive oil cake with cardamom requeijao cream

       
      What is the secret ingredient for a tender moist cake?- an olive oil batter is the answer.A high quality olive oil keeps a cake moist and adds another dimension of fruitiness.Olive oil cakes are a very Mediterranean thing.Portugal, Spain Italy and Greece, are all countries where olive oil reigns supreme, even in desserts, all those lovely moist orange and lemon polenta cakes.You must be thinking, don’t these cakes taste like olive oil? No, they don’t, nor would you want them to, that is not the point.I use extra-virgin oil - and there is never an olivey taste to the cake, although I could easily detect it in the sticky residue that was left in the pan. Ever since David Leite´s "The new Portuguese Table" came out in 2009 I have been serving our breakfast guests a Portuguese Orange olive oil cake.This has become a much requested staple,and is even cited in Alastair Sawdays special places to stay. 5 years on and I have now discovered George Mendes Lemon olive oil cake which is a lot simpler to make and equally tasty. Orange or lemon, who´s going to be served up on the casa rosada breakfast table? Two Portuguese boys who have grown up and brought their culinary heritage to the United States. Let the battle begin.I have come to olive oil cakes by default.They are great for guests who genuinely can not eat wheat or dairy( a majority of cakes include butter in the ingredients). Olive oil doesn’t help with leavening, but it does supply moistness. In cakes using butter and shortening, the fat is usually creamed with sugar to aerate the batter. But oil doesn’t hold air bubbles the way a solid fat will, so olive oil cakes get almost all their leavening from other sources like baking soda, or whipped egg whites. Obviously I have to replace the flour in any recipe with ground almonds or polenta, and I now make these cakes all the time as a preference for ourselves, even though our life and diet are not so unfairly constrained by these inflicting dietary requirements.I can not wait to try out a chocolate olive oil cake.I can hear the thespian salivating in the wings as I write this.What really makes this recipe is the cardamom requeijao cream,It´s well Dench.

      Olive oil cake with cardamom requeijao cream

      1 cup(250ml) fruity olive oil
      1 cup (250ml)full fat milk
      3 large eggs
      2tbsp freshly grated lemon zest
      12/3 cups(355g) sugar
      21/2 cups (385g) all purpose flour
      11/2 tsp flor de sal
      1tsp baking powder
      1/2 tsp baking soda
      Pre-heat the oven to 150C(300F).Lightly grease a 13 x 9inch (33 x 23cm) cake pan with oil
      or cooking spray.Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper and grease again.
      In a medium bowl,whisk together the oil, milk,and eggs until smooth.
      In a large bowl,rub the lemon zest into the sugar with your fingertips.Whisk in the flour,salt,baking powder and baking soda.Continue whisking while adding the wet ingredients in a slow steady stream.Whisk just until smooth and well combined,then pour into the prepared pan.
      Bake,rotating the pan halfway through,until the top is golden brown and springs back when gently pressed with your fingertip,about 30 minutes.
      let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.Cut into pieces to serve.Can be stored in an airtight container for up to three days.

      FOR THE CARDAMOM REQUEIJAO CREAM
      3/4 (180ml) heavy cream or mascarpone
      5 whole green cardamom pods,lightly crushed
      2 large egg yolks
      2tbsp sugar,plus more to taste
      3/4 cup(165g) requeijao or ricotta
      2 cups (300g) small or quartered strawberries
      toasted slithered almonds,for serving
      In a medium saucepan,combine the cream and cardamom.Bring to a simmer over a medium heat, then remove from the heat,cover,and allow to steep for 30 minutes.Pick out and discard the cardamom.Bring the cream back to a simmer over a medium heat.
      In a medium bowl,whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until well combined.Continue to whisk while adding the simmered cream in a slow steady stream.Return the mixture to the saucepan and and whisk over a low heat until thickened,with fine bubbles.You should have a thick curd like custard registering 85F / 30C on a sugar thermometer.Remove from the heat,then whisk in the cheese until smooth.Refrigerate until set.
      While cream mixture chills,prepare the strawberries with sugar to taste and a splash of water.Heat over a medium heat until just warm,about two minutes.remove from the heat and let stand until cooled to room temperature,serve the strawberries and chilled cream alongside the cake and sprinkle with the almonds.

      Saturday, 7 March 2015

      Uma sopa de amêndoa, alho e couve-flor com um charuto anchova


      The Casa Rosada tasting menu changes with the seasons and if we know in advance a little about the likes and dislikes of the particular guests, I can tune it accordingly. I have recently added two items to the menu that I thought would be well suited to the tail end of winter and the first glimmer of spring.The first is inspired by a Spanish White Almond Gazpacho. For a long time I have  wanted to experiment with a warm version of this soup without losing the traditional Spanish feel of the main ingredients.I kept the bread as this would be a good thickening agent but decided to infuse it with cauliflower.With the help of a little manchego cheese I managed to achieve a savoury, creamy and slightly sweet soup. I wanted it to feel like a thick warm almond milk but with some other Spanish flavours.
      Garlic almond and cauliflower soup
      2 1⁄2 cups water, for blending
      1 slice day-old white bread, crusts removed, torn into pieces
      2 ounces blanched almonds (should be about 1/2 cup volume)
      2 garlic cloves, fresh, skinned, roughly chopped
      1 tablespoon olive oil
      1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
      1 teaspoon salt

      Add all the ingredients into a blender or food processor and blend thoroughly.Taste and season, adjusting as needed (vinegar, sugar, more salt, etc.) set aside. 

      Good knob of butter
      1 small cauliflower,finely chopped, white florets only
      1 tablespoon olive oil
      250ml vegetable stock (or a good cube)
      150ml milk
      Salt and freshly ground white pepper
      50g grated manchego


      Gently heat the butter and olive oil in a pan and with the lid on gently sautée the cauliflower, for 4-5 minutes.
      Add the stock and milk. Season, bring to the boil and simmer for 12 minutes, with a lid on, or until the cauliflower is soft.Stir in the first seven ingredients that you have previously blended and set aside.
      Blend the mixture in a liquidiser with the cheese until smooth and strain through a fine-meshed sieve and season again if necessary. You can add a little more cheese for added flavour if you wish.If the mixture appears too thick,dilute gradually with extra milk until you reach the consistency of thick milk.Return to the pan and heat gently,stirring constantly,over medium low heat.Serve immediately with garlic croutons and garnished with slivers of toasted almonds.


      My second innovation to the tasting menu was an anchovy cigar. We were recently served up an amuse bouche in a restaurant and were told it was an anchovy cigar.It was a grissini with a marinated, salted anchovy wrapped around the bottom third.It was very tasty but I thought a lot more "cigar" was needed to honour it with the title of an "anchovy cigar."I cast my mind back to the allumettes aux anchois my mother used to make as little tit bits to serve up with a drink when friends popped round.She rolled anchovy in very thin brown bread and that was it.Nowadays the norm for this recipe is filo or puff pastry,but I thought I would return to the brown bread idea and then throw in some more sympathetic companions like garlic, capers, parmesan and breadcrumbs and you have a more tasty cigar than tobacco could ever fulfill.

      An Anchovy cigar
      serves 4
      1 loaf thinly sliced brown bread, crusts removed
      2 tins of anchovy fillets
      salt and pepper
      extra virgin olive oil
      plentiful lemon juice
      100g toasted breadcrumbs
      50g parmesan, grated
      50g chopped capers
      chopped parsley
      2 garlic cloves chopped

      Mix together in a bowl the toasted breadcrumbs, anchovies,grated parmesan,chopped capers,parsley and garlic. Season with salt and pepper.
      With a rolling pin,roll the bread slices out until they become thin and malleable sheets.
      spoon a line of the anchovy breadcrumb mix breadcrumb along the back third of each slice.Carefully roll the bread slices up rolling away from you until you have a tight cylinder.Sprinkle a little water just along the edge and press together well to seal the cigar.Tuck each end in and if necessary trim with a knife.Set aside.When ready to serve, lay the cigars,sealed edge downwards, on a baking tray lined with parchment.Brush a light coating of extra virgin olive oil on the cigars.Bake in a medium oven180C for about twenty minutes or until the bread becomes crisp.The timing here will depend on the freshness of the bread.Try and use the freshest bread possible. serve with a dipping sauce of your choice.

      Monday, 2 March 2015

      Arroz de pato,unexpected ratings( avaliaçãos inesperados)

      Croquetas arroz de pato, 2015

      "Sex and the kitchen- Beef encounter"
        The funny thing about writing a blog is that one never knows how popular a recipes will be. Often I think I have a real winner, but resulting statistics show no one really seems to appreciate it on the same level as I do. Then I post something rather simple and everyone goes nuts about it. Strange? You can imagine then, that when I posted Arroz de pato com imprevisto (a diferença) - Duck rice with a twist I was shocked by the response it got,and continues to get. Although I was pretty confident that I had a winning recipe, I never expected the recognition it got. After checking up on it today, the post has had over 6,000 hits.It has been top of the ratings for over two years now, and is 4,500 hits ahead of its closest competitor. How naive I was not to realise that putting the word sex in a blog title would dramatically affect the search engines results. "Sex and the kitchen- Beef encounter" comes in at all time number two.What is it that grabs the reader or puts them off? Is it in the title? Is the picture aspirational? In the case of "Sugar and spice and belly pork is nice" I think the picture probably contributed to its poor rating of only 34 views in the past year.It is extremely difficult to make cooked meat look appetising in a photograph,but I thought this was an innovative blog post and I am going to give it a re-run with a new picture and see what  reaction it gets second time round.
       Imagine the joy I got last October when my
      Gin and tonic jelly post got 354 hits on our facebook page in just one day and the reader who took their own initiative with the list of ingredients.I tagged lemon and lime wedges onto the bottom of the ingredients listing but omitted to tell the reader what to do with them as regards the recipe.She served the jelly up on the wedges.Not what I had originally intended but what a brilliant idea.That is the sort of feedback that makes it all worthwhile.Its three years now since I posted Arroz de pato com imprevisto (a diferença) - Duck rice with a twist. It is not a recipe I make very often to be honest, mainly because it is difficult to make in a small quantity.Anyway last weekend I decided to make it again for old times sake.As usual I was left with serious leftovers.I decided therefore to honour its third anniversary by giving you a recipe for using its leftovers.Croquetas, arroz de pato.I hope you like it? Serve these as starter portions or as part of a tapas.I served them with my own sweet and sour sauce. I haven´t included a recipe for this as some prefer more sweet than sour and others more sour than sweet.Here are some pointers..Seville oranges,mandarins, soya sauce, sweet sherry, sherry vinegar, honey,tomato sauce or ketchup,chilli flakes and don´t forget the corn starch.

      Croquetas, arroz de pato
      1 quantity of left over risotto
      plain flour for dusting
      2 eggs beaten
      breadcrumbs for coating
      sunflower oil for deep frying


      Take a little of the duck rice and form it into a ball, roughly the same size as a golf ball.You will find it easier if you wet your hands with cold water. Dust with a little flour,then coat with beaten egg and finally coat in the breadcrumbs.Repeat the process for each ball.
      Heat some oil in a large deep saucepan or in a deep fat fryer.Add the duck rice balls balls a few at a time and fry for 2-3 minutes until golden brown.Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot or cold.

      Friday, 27 February 2015

      Tarte de amêndoa,uma delicia para fim de semana

      I have always had a soft spot for a Portuguese almond tart, but never ever been able to replicate the one I had at a Portuguese cafe in Bloomsbury in London.Well now I think I´ve found a pretty close match for that memory. I´ll let you know in an hour or two when I´ve "deliberated, cogitated and digested."

      Portuguese almond tart
      Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 12-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Grease the hollows of the fluted edge especially well, as the topping part of the tart will stick.

      FOR THE BASE
      125g (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
      200g (1 cup) sugar
      2 eggs
      Splash (1/2 tsp.) vanilla extract, or seeds scraped from 1/2 large plump vanilla bean
      Pinch salt
      200g (1 1/2 cups) all purpose flour

      Cream together butter and sugar. Beat in eggs and vanilla. Blend in salt and flour. Spread evenly over bottom of tart pan. Bake for 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Let cool out of the oven for about 30 minutes. Increase oven temp to 400°.

      FOR THE TOPPING
      125g (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
      60g (1/4 cup) heavy cream
      150g (3/4 cup) sugar
      200g (2 cups sliced almonds)

      Cream together butter and sugar. Beat in cream. Blend in almonds. Spread evenly over top of cooled baked cake. Bake for 20 minutes or until topping is bubbling and browned. Cool completely before serving, but serve at room temperature.

      THE VERDICT
      If you like your desserts sweet but not cloying,this is one for you.It has a buttery almond filling and a crunchy, nutty, caramelised topping.My only suggestion might be to use a slightly smaller and deeper tart pan, then each slice you serve would have more depth to it.

      Thursday, 26 February 2015

      Vegetable crumble-food for thought?

      I’m not sure why I always through crumbles needed to be sweet. - See more at: http://mattbites.com/2010/10/11/vegetable-crumble/#sthash.O3Xhqpir.dpuf
      I’m not sure why I always through crumbles needed to be sweet. - See more at: http://mattbites.com/2010/10/11/vegetable-crumble/#sthash.O3Xhqpir.dpufI don´t know why I thought
      I’m not sure why I always through crumbles needed to be sweet. - See more at: http://mattbites.com/2010/10/11/vegetable-crumble/#sthash.O3Xhqpir.dpuf
      My post student days in London were the heydays of healthy wholesome eating.De rigeur was khaki, beige and army surplus sweaters as was dictated to us by Liz Tilberis´s innovative "More dash than cash" pages in Vogue.Tilberis introduced the notion of affordable style.She searched high and low for unexpected fashionable finds that wouldn´t make a hole in our aspirational pockets.
      she introduced the notion of affordable style. She searched high and low for unexpected fashionable finds that wouldn’t break the bank. - See more at: http://www.fashionschooldaily.com/index.php/2012/08/02/that-gal-is-liz-tilberis/#sthash.mszZuqBG.dpuf
      she introduced the notion of affordable style. She searched high and low for unexpected fashionable finds that wouldn’t break the bank. - See more at: http://www.fashionschooldaily.com/index.php/2012/08/02/that-gal-is-liz-tilberis/#sthash.mszZuqBG.dpuf
      Kitted out in our hearty oatmeal and mossy coloured fern flecked woolies we were not only ensured of being well insulated against the chill of our poorly heated apartments, but also of being perfectly co-ordinated with the earthy glaze of the Leach pottery soup bowls we fashionably supped from.And if we still felt the chill after imbibing a worthy leek and potato soup, there was always a lentil and cheese bake and a wholesome slice of banana bread. 
       Fashionable wholefood restaurants like Cranks,(purveyors of the best ever homity pie) were all the rage.Establishments such as this made their regular customers aware of the connection between healthy eating and uncomfortable seating. We squatted on stools at cramped tables in basements, dazzled by the stripped pine that surrounded us.Sadly this era, a way of life, a civilisation and so much more, has gone.Only Food For Thought and Neals Yard bakery remain as a reminder of wholefood days gone by.
      The queues out the door of the former come lunchtime were a good yard stick of the popularity of a long-standing vegetarian cafe and restaurant.
      Food for Thought was, and I believe still is, a Covent Garden institution. This basement vegetarian restaurant has been on Neal Street since 1974 and still has a well-deserved reputation for making it possible to enjoy delicious vegetarian food at edible prices.Not that I miss this retro lifestyle choice,but I have to admit I do occasionally get a pining for it.
       Back then, in the days before Pret-a-Whatever this was my preferred break from the humdrum of the magazine art room and a welcome escape from wantonly inhaling the vapours of cow gum.
      Fashions change and it was au reservoir to cranky eating habits and Hola to politically incorrect Nando´s.Cranks was sold to Nando's Grocery Ltd in 2001. An era, a way of life, a civilisation and so much more, was over. Cook in sauces and piri piri chicken were to be the next big thing.No use for office lunches but I have to say these cook in sauces were tasty, and a divine saviour by way of enabling a meal to be cobbled together in minutes.This was just what one needed after being pushed busy-wise till some ungodly hour of the day when one was unleashed from office toil to go home. 
      Cranks and crankiness wasn't something we only went out to do. We were cranky in the privacy of our own homes, too.Last week I thought I would return to that crankiness and try to recreate some of that wonder of sustainable living and self sufficiency.Yes It can be recreated in even the smallest of tiny domestic kitchens.I had a burning desire to return to the days of carrot cake and tray bakes.
      Who could have thought a serious meat eater like me would have considered cooking vegetables with a crumble topping? Or perhaps a nut roast - its density akin to a plywood block or reconstituted sawdust.
      Having been one who enjoyed this guilty culinary pleasure I don´t know why I thought crumbles have to be sweet. Less bother than a pie, vegetable crumble is a great way to use up what you have in the fridge, cupboard or freezer! You can change the filling with the seasons making green and summery fillings in the spring and summer and filling it with heartier root vegetables in the winter. 
      It was wholemeal all the way for me. There was no stopping me now.The thespian,never one to look forward to a plate of greens, was not convinced.My inspiration came from Portugal´s most prolific food and travel blog author and recipe developer,Isabel Zibaia Rafael .When she stayed at Casa Rosada for last year´s bloggers weekend she gave us a copy of her book Cozinha par dias felizes and I was taken with one particular recipe, pumpkin and roasted beetroot salad with Feta cheese and cous cous. I had a large butternut squash to hand,a block of feta in the fridge and decided that along with some almonds these would be the core ingredients for a savoury crumble.
      Butternut squash crumble
      Serves 8 portions
      As regards how you portion this for cooking is entirely up to you.The quantities are easily changeable from a 4 pint/1.8 litre baking dish to smaller individual ramekins or for starter portions or make ahead portions to keep in the freezer.Just adjust quantities and cooking times accordingly.

      1.5kg butternut squash,peeled and cut into 1/2 - 3/4 inch cubes.

      3-4 large shallots thinly sliced
      2 garlic cloves peeled and crushed
      2oz(50g) bacon/pancetta chopped( vegetarians omit)
      2 tablespoons coarsely chopped parsley
      1 teaspoon dried sage
      1 heaped teaspoon coriander seeds 
      2-3 dried red chillies crumbled
      1/2 cup vegetable stock
      Flor de sal and freshly ground black pepper
       

      TOPPING
      3/4 cup (95g flour)
      soup spoon finely ground almonds
      1/3 cup sliced or flaked almonds
      1 teaspoon sugar (optional)
      1 teaspoon fresh thyme
      1 teaspoon Flor de sal and pepper
      1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 inch pieces  

      Pre-heat the oven to 180C / 350F. Butter a large baking dish or 8 ramekins.Bash the coriander seeds and chillies in a pestle and mortar. Sauté the shallots,garlic,bacon,if using. Add the cubes of squash and continue cooking until it begins to soften(about 15minutes) sprinkle over the crushed chilli and coriander.Add the herbs,stock and seasoning and continue cooking for another 5 minutes.Pour the mixture into your baking dish or ramekins.Cover tightly with foil and bake for 30 minutes.While this is cooking make your topping.In a medium bowl bring together the flour,ground almonds,sugar if using,thyme,Flor de sal and pepper.Add the pieces of butter and bring the mixture together with your fingers until you have a consistency that resembles bread crumbs.Stir in the flaked and sliced almonds. Remove the dish or ramekins from the oven,remove the foil covering and scatter the crumble over the top.Bake 45 minutes until golden brown.






      I’m not sure why I always through crumbles needed to be sweet. Is it because I’m usually eating them weekly smack dab in the middle of summer? Probably. But last month in Paris we stopped by a lovely little shop and café for lunch where Adam ordered a Zucchini Crumble, a small dish of tender eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and onions topped with a savory buttery topping and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. Its simplicity astounded me, its flavor surprised me. And the door to enjoying a different type of crumble was opened and we’re already looking forward to repeating this dish with autumn’s delicious butternut squash or even tender roasted root veggies. It’s simple, satisfying, and makes a wonderful lunch. - See more at: http://mattbites.com/2010/10/11/vegetable-crumble/#sthash.FglceRaf.dpuf
      I’m not sure why I always through crumbles needed to be sweet. Is it because I’m usually eating them weekly smack dab in the middle of summer? Probably. But last month in Paris we stopped by a lovely little shop and café for lunch where Adam ordered a Zucchini Crumble, a small dish of tender eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and onions topped with a savory buttery topping and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. Its simplicity astounded me, its flavor surprised me. And the door to enjoying a different type of crumble was opened and we’re already looking forward to repeating this dish with autumn’s delicious butternut squash or even tender roasted root veggies. It’s simple, satisfying, and makes a wonderful lunch. - See more at: http://mattbites.com/2010/10/11/vegetable-crumble/#sthash.L492k6Az.dpuf
      I’m not sure why I always through crumbles needed to be sweet. Is it because I’m usually eating them weekly smack dab in the middle of summer? Probably. But last month in Paris we stopped by a lovely little shop and café for lunch where Adam ordered a Zucchini Crumble, a small dish of tender eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and onions topped with a savory buttery topping and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. Its simplicity astounded me, its flavor surprised me. And the door to enjoying a different type of crumble was opened and we’re already looking forward to repeating this dish with autumn’s delicious butternut squash or even tender roasted root veggies. It’s simple, satisfying, and makes a wonderful lunch. - See more at: http://mattbites.com/2010/10/11/vegetable-crumble/#sthash.L492k6Az.dpuf
      I’m not sure why I always through crumbles needed to be sweet. Is it because I’m usually eating them weekly smack dab in the middle of summer? Probably. But last month in Paris we stopped by a lovely little shop and café for lunch where Adam ordered a Zucchini Crumble, a small dish of tender eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and onions topped with a savory buttery topping and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. Its simplicity astounded me, its flavor surprised me. And the door to enjoying a different type of crumble was opened and we’re already looking forward to repeating this dish with autumn’s delicious butternut squash or even tender roasted root veggies. It’s simple, satisfying, and makes a wonderful lunch. - See more at: http://mattbites.com/2010/10/11/vegetable-crumble/#sthash.NoweR8fC.dpuf
      I’m not sure why I always through crumbles needed to be sweet. Is it because I’m usually eating them weekly smack dab in the middle of summer? Probably. But last month in Paris we stopped by a lovely little shop and café for lunch where Adam ordered a Zucchini Crumble, a small dish of tender eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and onions topped with a savory buttery topping and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. Its simplicity astounded me, its flavor surprised me. And the door to enjoying a different type of crumble was opened and we’re already looking forward to repeating this dish with autumn’s delicious butternut squash or even tender roasted root veggies. It’s simple, satisfying, and makes a wonderful lunch. - See more at: http://mattbites.com/2010/10/11/vegetable-crumble/#sthash.NoweR8fC.dpuf

      Saturday, 21 February 2015

      Bolos lêvedos de São Miguel

      This is more like an English muffin than an American muffin


      In the great, wide world of breakfast breads, the English muffin is a well-known favourite. On sandwiches, under Eggs Benedict, or on their own, English muffins are a classic choice for breakfasts on the hop as well as leisurely Sunday brunches. English muffins may have cornered the breakfast market,but they're not the only "European muffin" out there, and they may not be the best either. The Portuguese muffin can one-up and out-do its English counterpart any morning of the week.
      For those who aren't familiar with the Portuguese muffin, it is slightly sweeter and slightly larger than an English muffin. You don't pull it apart like you would an English muffin -- instead, you cut it in half with a knife, as you would a bagel. The cross-section is smoother, with fewer "nooks and crannies" than an English muffin.
      The dough for Portuguese muffins consists of flour, sugar, eggs, butter, whole milk, yeast and water.
       Also known as Portuguese sweet muffins, Portuguese sweet bread, Portuguese pancakes, or Bolo Levedo, these muffins are sturdier than English muffins and don't crumble as easily, which makes them great for sandwiches, toasties or instead of burger buns.
      I could quite happily eat these muffins for breakfast and again for lunch, and I have no shame.My favourite employment of Bolo levedos is for eggs Benedict (above).
      So when I saw a recipe for these online I decided to experiment with making them in my own kitchen. I have never even thought that bread could be baked bread in a dry frying pan.We were beyond excited when they came out just like the picture that had inspired me. Its almost magical watching the frying pan as these squashed dough balls slowly transform themselves into the sort of muffin we all know and enjoy
      .
      Bolos lêvedos de São Miguel                                                              Makes 8 or 9 muffins
      500-550 g all purpose flour
      125 g butter (preferably Azorean!) softened
      125 g Sugar 

      20 g of baker's yeast
      200ml milk
      Zest of 1 lemon
      2 eggs

      In a bowl, pour in the warm milk, then the sugar and the crumbled yeast. Add the beaten eggs and then the softened butter. Add the lemon zest. Finally, sift in 500 g of flour.Turn the dough out onto a floured surface, and knead for about 10 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. Watch the kneading, it is likely you will have to add a little more flour, but do so using a tablespoon at a time testing the mass little by little (I added about 50g more, ie about 4 tablespoons).
      Cover dough with a cloth and set aside to rise until doubled in bulk, about 11/2 hours.
      Divide dough into about 8 or 9 pieces, and shape them into flat round cakes about 1/2 inch thick. 
      In a dry ungreased nonstick frying pan, cook the flattened dough balls on a low heat, one side and then the other. Caution: keep the flame low.Set aside to cool on a wire rack.


      Benaddicted to eggs,'What one man can invent another can discover.'

      This is one of the prettiest Benedicts I´ve ever seen!

      Eggs Benedict represents everything we should not be eating in the mornings. It's a decadent stack of bacon, poached eggs and English muffin that gets generously doused in a buttery, rich hollandaise sauce; it's no wonder then that Eggs Benedict is one of the best-tasting dishes you can find on a breakfast menu anywhere.It still remains one of my all time favourite breakfast dishes, probably for that very same indulgent reason.You can not imagine what happened recently when I put Benedict Cumberbatch into a google search and what came up was a recipe for Eggs Benedict Cumberbatch. Eggs Arnold Bennett perhaps?-No there it was bold as Sherlock. I knew what this post would be about the moment I saw eggs and Cumberbatch in the title.
      Mmmmmm, anything Cumberbatch is bound to be seriously delicious!Well isn´t it? Sherlock did it for me big time.... but I never thought of making something in his honour. This is genius!
      I was beyond excitement.It immediately got me thinking that if the Savoy Hotel had created an *omelette in the name of a turn of the century English novelist, then why not create a modern twist of a classic egg dish for one of todays rising stars of the silver screen.I am a great fan of the Cumberbatch, he actually  deserves an entire breakfast buffet named after him he is so yummy!!! I loved the idea of this as much as I also love Watson his side kick, the cute and adorable Martin Freeman.The author of the post,  Molly Yeh , served her Benedict up on a delicious hunk of Polenta.

      'There is nothing new under the sun. It has all been done before.'
       Sherlock Holmes
      -A Study in Scarlet

      Swapping the English muffin for a polenta disc makes it even more decadent, and whilst I love the classic version of this dish, there are many variations that are worth trying too. Replacing the pork and fishifying  it with salmon lightens it up a bit and adding avocado is not a bad idea.
      Change the bread,trade the poached eggs for other types of eggs or totally deconstruct it or re-imagine it.This got me harking back to a commission I was given back in 1987 to create the "ultimate Italian sandwich." 28 years later, given the inspiration, this seemed like the perfect time to give one of my signature dishes a makeover.The original recipe was Grilled Polenta with smoked salmon avocado and mascarpone.Today for my Portuguese Ben -addiction I served up a sandwich of Milho Frito ( a kind of Portuguese bubble and squeak) with a filling of smoked salmon, avocado "Hollandaise",and rocket. My Avocado “Hollandaise” is not technically a hollandaise or a variant. But maybe you guessed that from the quotation marks. It’s really just pureed avocado with a bit of lemon juice,Flor de sal, water, and olive oil, but it makes a great healthy option for a weekend benedict.Is there a vegan in the house?

      MY INSPIRATION
      eggs benedict cumberbatch (Molly yeh)
      from bottom to top:
      a slice of pre-cooked polenta, fried in a bit of butter, salted
      two slices of canadian bacon, lightly browned
      one egg, fried in a greased heat-safe biscuit cutter, salted and peppered
      three leaves of fresh arugula
      a few shavings of parmesan
      optional tabasco 
      My re-auditioned Benedict (top)
      For the Milho Frito base
      Serves 6
      450g (1lb) fine ground cornmeal (polenta)
      50g (2oz) butter
      2 teaspoons Flor de sal
      about 450g dark green cabbage,finely shredded
      0live oil for frying

      For the Filling
      6 slices of smoked salmon
      1 bunch of rocket
      6 poached eggs

      For the "Avocado hollandaise"
      1 very ripe avocado, peeled and chopped
      2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
      2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
      Flor de sal
      Freshly ground pepper

      Mix half the cornmeal with 300ml (1/2 pint) cold water until smooth and free of lumps.Bring 2.5 litres of water to the boil in a heavy pan with the butter and salt.Stir in the watered cornmeal and bring back to the boil.Add the cabbage.Cook for about 10 minutes until the cabbage is tender.Sprinkle in the rest of the cornmeal,bring back to the boil again and stir over the heat for another 20 -30 minutes (depending on the manufacturers instructions and how finely ground it is),until the mixture is thick and pulls away from the base and sides of the pan.If you need extra water,make sure it´s boiling.
      Tip out onto a lightly oiled shallow baking tray.Smooth the polenta out in an even layer using a metal spatula dipped in hot water. Cover with a tea towel and leave to set and cool for at least one hour or up to 24 hours overnight in the refrigerator.When ready to make your benedicts press out 12 circles using a 10cm cutter. Fry the circles in two batches on both sides in shallow oil until crisp and golden.
      Keep your first batch warm in the oven while you fry the second batch.

      Place a slice of polenta on each serving plate  and cover generously with rocket leaves.Arrange slices of smoked salmon on top and then nestle the poached eggs into the salmon.Pour the "hollandaise over the top.Position the second slices of polenta at an angle against the stack.

      In a blender, combine the avocado and lemon juice with 1/3 cup of hot water. Puree until smooth and light in texture, about 2 minutes, scraping down the side of the bowl occasionally. With the machine on, drizzle in the olive oil and puree until combined. Season with salt and pepper. Serve the hollandaise over poached eggs.

      *Arnold Bennett was so delighted with the egg, smoked haddock and parmesan concoction that chefs at the Savoy created for him, he insisted on it being made wherever he travelled. And at the Savoy, Omelette Arnold Bennett remains a standard dish to this day.

      Tuesday, 17 February 2015

      Sonhos - leave your dreams behind and sugar the bitter pill of Lent



      Where did the word “carnival” come from? Because Catholics were not supposed to eat meat during Lent, they called their festival, carnevale
       — from the latin expression carne vale, which means "farewell to meat", signifying that carnival was your last chance to eat meat before the fasting and abstinence of Lent. I may not be a practising Catholic anymore, but going back to my roots I remember well the custom of giving up something for Lent.Why did we give up things for Lent? It was all about sacrifice and as children we were made to give up our favourite treat: the theory was that Jesus gave up his life for us so the least we could do was give up eating Mars Bars for forty days.While Jesus wandered in the desert for forty days, resisting the devil´s lies, we fought off our cravings for pizza.
      This was a long time ago but the ritual of Lent remained with me for a long time.
      I have to admit that I am still drawn to the spartan simplicity,the stripped back starkness of an undecorated church devoid of flowers,the mysterious reverence of its covered up statues.Most of all its the symbols of ash and especially the fragrant aroma left behind by the burning of incense.It still touches a nerve.
      At one point in my life, I gave up giving things up for Lent. It was stupid, I thought, and superficial. Yes, I too love and crave chocolate, but at the end of 40 days, I would just symbolically binge and eat up more than my fair share anyway in the form of a large hollow gold Lindt bunny, Chocolate Orange, After Eights a and a whole lot more. So what was the point? 
      Well Its been carnival this weekend and I wanted to share with you this recipe for a traditional Carnival treat from Madeira, where the traditional foods at this time of year are the sonhos and malassadas (deep fried doughnuts).These are served up with some sort of decadent syrupy sauce or in this case a Flor de sal caramel sauce from George Mendes. Apparently  on one of his restaurant feedback cards a grateful female customer wrote"I love this sauce so much, I want to bathe in it". My sentiments exactly.
      'Sonhos', means dreams in Portuguese.They are so called because they are a hollow and light, deep fried doughnuty and dreamy. I thought that not only would this be a reminder of my past penitence, but also a chance to bring my favourite christmas present into practice.
      Cinnamon-Sugar "Doughnuts"
       Serves 8
      1/4 cup plus1/4 tsp (55g)
      1/2 tsp unsalted butter
      1 cup all purpose flour (150g)
      4 large eggs
      1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
      sunflower oil as needed
      In a medium saucepan,bring 1 cup (250ml)water,1/4 teaspoon of the sugar,and the butter to a boil over a high heat.Add the flour and stir continuously and vigorously until the mixture forms a ball.reduce the heat to medium.Continue cooking,stirring vigorously,until the dough starts to puff and a thin layer of dough sticks to the bottom of the pan.The dough will be very stiff; just keep working it.Transfer it to a processor fitted with the paddle attachment.
      Beat on a medium low speed just to break up the ball.Add the eggs,one at a time,beating until smooth after each addition.Raise the speed to high and beat,scraping the bowl occasionally, until the eggs are fully incorporated and there are no clumps,about 1 minute.Don´t overbeat the dough;the bowl should still be warm.
      Transfer the dough to a container,let cool slightly, and refrigerate until chilled.
      when you´re ready to serve,combine the cinnamon and remaining 1/4 cup (50g) sugar in a medium bowl.Fill a medium saucepan with oil to a depth of 3 inches(7.5cm).Heat to 300F (150C).using ateaspoon cookie scoop or measuring teaspoon,carefully drop a few balls of dough into the hot oil.Don´t crowd the pan.Adjust the heat to maintain the temperature.Cook until the sonhos float,puff , and are golden and cooked through,about 8 minutes.Immediately transfer to the cinnamon sugar and gently toss to coat.repeat with the remaining dough.serve the sonhos hot with the salt caramel or a sauce of your choice.Lemon curd,rhubarb sauce or a home made custard could be options.

      Flor de sal caramel sauce
      11/4 cups of sugar ( 250g )
      174 cup(180ml) heavy cream
      1 tablespoon Flor de sal
      2 tablespoons unsalted butter,cut in pieces and softened 
      In a medium saucepan,combine the sugar and 5 tablespoons(75ml) water.
      Bring to a boil over a medium heat,swirling the pan occasionally,until the mixture is amber.reduce the heat to low and carefully and slowly whisk in the cream.The mixture will bubble up.Continue whisking until well combined.Whisk in the salt.Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl.when lukewarm,stir in the butter,a little at atime, until well combined.Serve the caramel at room temperature.The caramel can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.Bring to room temperature before serving.


      If you prefer a butterless caramel follow my own recipe

      Flor de Sal caramel
      1/2 cup mascarpone
      1 teaspoon Flor de sal
      2 tablespoons golden syrup or honey
      1 cup sugar
      1teaspoon vanilla
      1/4 cup creme fraiche
      In a small saucepan combine the mascarpone and the salt, simmer over a very low heat until the salt is dissolved and then set aside.
      In a medium saucepan combine the sugar and syrup or honey carefully. They will not combine well until the sugar begins to melt.Cook over a high heat until a thermometer reads 350º (6-8 minutes). Without a thermometer just pull the pan off the heat when it is a medium goldish brown. It will continue to cook in the heat of the pan.( Better pull it off early than be sorry). Remove from the heat and let it cool for 1 minute.
      Add the cream mixture and vanilla to the sugar mix. Whisk in the creme fraiche. Let the caramel cool to room temperature.

      Thursday, 12 February 2015

      A Voz do Carnaval e dia de Sao Valentim


       
        a stunning pudding to wow your beloved this weekend 
       
      Chica chica boom chic, lets get all fruity this weekend.Yi yi yi yi, Valentines day and Carnival collide on the same weekend.Whether you are feeding a carnival party or just looking to wow your little latin lupelu I have found a pudding that instantly conjures up the outlandish fruit-festooned headgear that was the "Brazilian Bombshell"Carmen Miranda. She epitomized the spirit of carnivals the world over,bringing the vitality and essence of Latin culture to the streets.
      Born in Portugal, her devoutly Catholic parents moved to Brazil when she was a baby. Her convent education necessitated that she keep her entertainment business dreams under covers,and she started off her career as a department store clerk, entertaining her co-workers.That aside, here is a tutti frutti terrine to keep her spirit alive.
      Strawberries are plentiful here in southern Portugal at the moment but alas will be over in a couple of months, just when you really want them. Summer berries, however are scarce, so I had  to use imported blueberries and raspberries padded out with a large bag of frozen fruits of the forest. I am sure with a bit of imagination you can make this pudding work with whatever fruit is available in season down your way.Whether you´re down Argentina way, its That night in Rio or you´re having a Weekend in Havana,The gang will all be there so lets do the Copacabana...."Beijo Bamba" enjoy

      A Pink port and tonic terrine

      You will need 2 x 900g loaf tins 19 x 12 x 9 cms deep

      300ml Croft Pink Port

      125ml tonic water
      ( if you cant find this, you could substitute 425 ml sparkling rose wine and failing that 125ml sparkling mineral water to 300ml of rose wine)
      22g gelatine granules or leaf equivalent
      50g caster sugar
      1 tbsp fresh lime juice

      FOR THE FRUIT

      500g strawberries
      225g raspberries
      110g each of blackcurrants,redcurrants and blue berries, or a combination of your own choice

      Remove the stalks from the fruit and halve any strawberry that is larger than a quail s egg.Carefully mix all the fruit together in a large bowl. In a small saucepan heat half the port and tonic till it begins to simmer, then whisk the sugar and gelatine into it. Make sure that everything has dissolved completely before adding the remaining liquid and lime juice.
      Pour the liquid into a jug and allow to cool. Lay the fruit in the loaf tin with the smallest prettiest fruit first as this will be the top of the pudding when the terrine is turned out. Pour in all but 150ml of the liquid over the fruit. Lay a sheet of clingfilm over the tin. Place the other terrine on top then put two unopened tins as weights into the terrine and put in the fridge for one hour or until it has set. Warm up the remaining 150ml wine mixture and pour it over the surface of the terrine. Re-cover with clingfilm and return to the fridge overnight to set firm.

      TO SERVE
      Turn out the terrine by dipping it very briefly in hot water and inverting it on to a plate.
      Use a very sharp knife (also dipped in hot water ) to cut it into slices.
      This recipe can also be made in small individual ramekins if you are catering for large numbers.
      Quantities can be doubled or reduced in the same proportions.