Tuesday, 24 April 2018

Bife atum com molho teryaki balsãmico. Tuna steak with teryaki balsamic reduction

I say this is simple, but I do know that there are some people who find cooking fresh tuna a bit daunting.I don’t think it is all that tricky,you just need a good fool proof method.....
I found a recipe for Tuna steak with a Teryaki balsamic reduction and was intrigued to give it a try. I have always used Asian inspired flavours when cooking tuna and this was a new twist. I am very thankful I stirred it up. The Balsamic reduction is so complimentary to the recipe, it made this dish stand out. I liked it so much, I have now repeated the recipe twice this week(see below). Make sure you only sear the tuna briefly on each side so you wont over cook it. Also, it's best to use a cast iron skillet for this recipe so you get a nice sear on the fish.The balsamic reduction sauce I used to glaze the tuna worked so much better than I ever thought it would….the glaze was detectable but let the tuna steak itself take center stage. 
I had lots of leftover syrupy glaze  that I  put in the fridge and have been using on salads and such like ever since….There's nothing quite like grilled Tuna and this recipe does not disappoint.
 An alternative way of serving
Tuna steak with teryaki balsamic reduction
 Long, thin ribbon pasta, approximately 1/8 inch wide.
 Narrower version of tagliatelle.
for 4 persons
4 tuna steaks
250g taglierini  (right)
( 2 nests per person
flat leaf parsley for garnish

(this can be made in advance and re-heated)

250ml balsamic vinegar reduced by 2/3
300ml chicken stock
50g sugar
4 soup spoons of Kikkomam soya sauce
4 soup spoons of mirin or sherry
cornflour to bind
combine all the ingredients in a small pan and reduce by half.
Bind the sauce with a little cornflour.

3 tbsp soya sauce
juice of 1/2 lime
1 tbsp rice vinegar1 tbsp sesame oil
1 pinch of Piri piri flakes 6 thin slices of fresh ginger
2 garlic cloves crushed
In a large bowl combine all the ingredients for the marinade.
add the tuna steaks and toss thoroughly in the marinade mix.
refrigerate for at least 1 hour but not more than 6,turning once or twice.

Bring a pan of boiling water to the boil with flor de sal and some olive oil.Add the pasta and cook for the time stipulated on the packet.When cooked drain,add the marinade from the tuna steaks and stir through.Keep warm while you cook the tuna steaks on a hot griddle pan.Re-heat the teryaki balsamic reduction.

Quickly heat through the previously cooked pasta and garnish with chopped flat leaf parsley.Divide the pasta between four soup plates,top with the tuna steaks and finish with a topping of teryaki balsamic reduction.

How to cook tuna steaks perfectly every time
Try to buy tuna that’s about 1½ cm thick.
Marinate the tuna steaks and rub all over, so the tuna is evenly coated.
Put a non-stick griddle pan or frying pan on a high heat and heat up the dry frying pan for 1 minute. Do not put any oil in the pan.
Put the tuna in the hot pan and cook for 1-2 minutes on each side. Then remove from the pan immediately.
Eh voila! You should have perfectly cooked tuna that is brown on the top and bottom but pink in the middle. And, if you use a griddle pan, it will have pretty char lines too.
If you prefer tuna that is cooked all the way through (but not over cooked) cook the tuna for 3 minutes on each side and it should be just cooked through. If in doubt, cut one open to check.

Friday, 20 April 2018

A Simple supper.Cauliflower "steak" with cauliflower cheese sauce, poached egg and ham

This is my new spin on cauliflower cheese.So, cauliflower “steaks.”Essentially, we’re talking about cross-sections of cauliflower, seasoned and roasted until tender and succulent.I mean, I sort of think “steak” is a bit far fetched, but I’m fully on board with the method ( and totally not on board with supermarkets climbing aboard the vegan bandwagon and charging a hefty price for pre-sliced cauliflower when you can buy and prepare it yourself for half the price).
A meat-free steak alternative? Possibly, but wrapped in plastic and overpackaged? Many people have expressed concern that retailers have evidently missed the mark by overcharging for a product that is sheer exploitation and shows little if no thought for the environment.
Anyway so,rant aside, a fresh cauliflower locally grown and purchased on the same day it was cut  – just brush with oil, season with salt and pepper, grill or sautee,then oven roasted with a cauliflower cheese topping, a slice of ham and finally topped with a poached egg.Comfort food at its best.Who could sing for anything better than Little Tommy Tucker
 Cauliflower "steak" with cauliflower cheese sauce poached egg and ham
serves 2
1 medium-size head cauliflower
2 tablespoons olive oil
Flor de sal and freshly ground pepper
black pepper to taste
dessert spoon Dijon mustard
60g good quality melting cheese cheddar or provolone,grated
1tbsp butter
1tbsp flour
300ml mix of half reserved cauliflower stock and half milk
2 slices ham
2 eggs

Preheat your oven to medium, about 180-200 degrees C.
Peel the leaves off of the head of cauliflower and cut the stem off of the bottom. Sit the head upright on the flat cut bottom and, with a sharp chef’s knife, cut into two 1-inch thick slices. Generally, you can only get 2 good steaks out of one head of cauliflower, the slices from the middle. Reserve the two middle slices and save the outer sections for later use. Brush both sides of the cauliflower slices with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.Sear the cauliflower slices in a cast iron griddle pan
until golden brown on both sides and fork-tender in the middle,4-5 minutes.Flip over and repeat on the other side.Remove the cauliflower slices to a baking dish and lay a slice of ham across the top of each slice.Set aside.Put the reserved outer sections in a processor and blitz until you have a coarse grain like cous cous.Add the cauliflower grains to enough boiling water to cover them(approx 0.5 litres).Boil for a couple of minutes until softened but still retaining their texture.Drain the cauliflower saving 150ml of the cooking water and add that to 150ml of milk.
With the flour, butter, milk and stock, make a bechamel and add the mustard and cheese as if you were making a cauliflower cheese.When the sauce thickens add the cauliflower grains  and remove from the heat.Spoon the cauliflower cheese sauce over the ham and top with some extra grated cheese.Place the baking dish with the cauliflower in a hot oven 220C for about 15-20 minutes,finishing under the grill to achieve a nice crusty brown top.Keep the cauliflower warm while you poach the eggs.Transfer each cauliflower steak to a plate and top each portion with a poached egg.

Tuesday, 17 April 2018

Take it away-home made "Fake away" Thai salmon burger

Ditch the dodgy takeaways and make your own homemade versions instead. 
Healthier, cheaper and far tastier, too.
"Salmon is a great source of omega 3 fatty acids that are anti-inflammatory to the body and critical for good health. Omega-3s support the body’s health in every way and are vital in the fight against diabetes and cardiovascular disease. Omega 3′s also help to lower cholesterol, reduce high blood pressure, nourish the immune system and reduce symptoms of arthritis and depression".
Most of us know we should be eating oily fish due to its range of health benefits, but can't stomach the taste.If I read one more article about the health benefits of my least favorite fish, I honestly cannot be held accountable for my actions.By now, we know from every magazine, newspaper, television and vitamin commercial that the almighty salmon is healthy to eat and it has antioxidants. We see that everywhere, hear about that from friends, family, doctors, hairdressers.Well, salmon is one of the best sources – a 100g serving can give you around 2000mg of omega-3, so it’s hard to beat.
I am trying to eat a healthier diet these days and of course, wild salmon is always recommended as one of the best foods you can eat for good nutrition. The problem is, I don't really like the taste of salmon.So how can I disguise the taste of it? 
Home made curry
We are all aware that we should be eating oily fish due to its range of health benefits but can't stomach the taste.With a bit of imagination and culinary artistry there are several ways to disguise the taste without a layer of ketchup in sight.I am going down the route of trying to make some of my favourite takeaway dishes at home......"fakeaways" they´re called.We all make curries at least once a week and maybe make our own slant on a fish and chip supper.Kebabs are easy, and so too egg fried rice dishes.Its so easy to make your own spring rolls.Self endorsed pizzas are the ultimate TV dinner.Custom made with no waiting time, and fresh and hot out of your own oven. Once you put your mind to it there are  stacks of 'fakeaways'  that save you cash and satisfy your cravings.First up I have tried a Thai style salmon burger with home made cucumber and coriander relish.For the salmon sceptics amongst us I defy anyone to not like salmon after eating these.They are an easy way to enjoy oily fish.  and are a delicious alternative to standard ground beef or pork burgers.As with any burger, they are delicious piled on top of a soft, buttery bun, topped with all your favourite toppings. Instead of the usual lettuce topped burger, however, I stuck with the Thai flavours of the salmon burgers and made a cucumber and coriander relish.You could make a Thai Cabbage Slaw instead.
Thai-style salmon burger
with cucumber and coriander relish

adapted from a recipe by Donna Hay
Makes 4
½ cup (100g) brown rice
1 cup (250ml) water
1 stalk lemongrass (white part only), roughly chopped
1 long red chilli, chopped
1 clove garlic, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon sea salt flakes 
2 kaffir lime leaves, shredded
2 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced
½ cup coriander (cilantro) leaves, chopped, plus extra leaves to serve
500g skinless salmon fillets, cut into 2cm pieces


1 Lebanese cucumber, seeds removed and chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon honey
Place the rice and water in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 20 minutes or until almost tender. Remove from the heat and set aside, covered, for 10 minutes or until tender. 
While the rice is cooking, preheat oven to 220°C (425°F). Place the lemongrass, chilli, garlic, fish sauce and soya sauce in a small food processor and process until finely chopped. Place in a large bowl, add the salt, kaffir lime leaves, onion, coriander, salmon and rice and mix well to combine. Place ½ cup of the mixture in the food processor and process until finely chopped. Return to the salmon mixture and mix well to combine. 
Place dollops of the mixture on 2 large lightly greased oven trays lined with non-stick baking paper and flatten into burgers. Cook, turning halfway, for 8 minutes or until golden. 
To make the cucumber coriander relish, place the cucumber, coriander, lime juice, fish sauce and honey  in a small processor and blitz  to combine. Serve the fish cakes with the relish on the side and potato sticks.

Thursday, 12 April 2018

Sarladaise are here again

The first new-season potatoes are out, but its raining incessantly and there is enough of a chill in the air still to justify a generous plate of potatoes with a crispy duck confit.Sarladaise is the name given to a method of preparing potatoes in the Périgord region of France.If you go anywhere in the Dordogne area of southern France you can be sure that you will be served this fabulous potato dish as an accompaniment to meat dishes and salads. Hearty, wholesome and absolutely scrumptious. Sarlat potatoes or pomme de terres Sarladaises is easy for you to make at home and recreate a fabulous authentic French taste in about 30 minutes. The thinly sliced potatoes are sautéed(without par-boiling) in duck fat.When they are cooked they are sprinkled with chopped parsley and garlic,covered and left to sweat.In restaurants,truffles are often added,but this is incorrect,;truffles are however an ingredient of sarladaise sauce,a cold emulsified sauce flavoured with brandy, served with grilled or roasted meat.Potatoes Sarladaises are an absolute treat, with the nutty, velvety richness of duck fat, and the beautiful contrast between the tender middle of the potatoes and the browned crunchy bits.I could eat potatoes sarladaises any day of the year, but early spring is an excellent time of year to make them.
Confit of Duck
Order duck legs from your butcher each weighing at least 300g.Ask him to remove the thigh bone from the legs at the joint,leaving the flesh intact, and also to chop the end knuckle off each duck leg to expose the bone. Duck fat can be bought from a good butcher or delicatessen.Once the legs have been cooked in the fat,they can be left for up to a week until required and the fat frozen and used again.You need to begin this by rubbing the salt into the duck legs and placing them in the plastic container so they fit comfortably in one layer. Then sprinkle them with any remaining salt, cover with a lid and refrigerate for 24 hours.

For the salting:
8 large duck legs
6 oz (175 g) Flor de sal
For the cooking and preserving:
3 x 340 g tins duck fat
8 cloves garlic, bruised (no need to peel)
20 black peppercorns, coarsely crushed
¾ oz (20 g) fresh thyme sprigs
4 bay leaves, each cut into 2 pieces
To make the confit, preheat the oven to gas mark 1, 275°F, 140°C. Put the goose fat into the casserole and heat gently.
While it’s heating, wash the duck legs thoroughly under running water - it is important to do this very well to prevent the final result being too salty. Then place them in a bowl of cold water, drain and do the same thing again (to make absolutely sure!). After that, put the wet duck legs into the goose fat, along with the bruised garlic, peppercorns, thyme and bay leaves. Bring it up to simmering point, cover and transfer to the preheated oven for 2½ hours. To check the meat is tender, use a small skewer, which should find little resistance when pushed into the duck legs. 
Now cool for about an hour, then remove the legs from the fat and put them back into the (washed and dried) plastic container. Strain the cooled fat over the legs then, when completely cold, cover and store in the fridge ready for when you want to use it, removing it from the fridge about 1 hour before reheating it in the oven.
Salardaise potatoes
Serves 4.
Worth the time. Some things just are—and this is one of them....  only three ingredients: potatoes, garlic, and fat.
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes

700 grams (1 1/2 pounds) waxy potatoes (i.e. they hold their shape when cooked)
3 tablespoons (35 grams)  duck fat
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cloves garlic, finely sliced
Finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
Peel the potatoes and slice them into 5-mm (1/5-inch) slices. Rinse in a colander to remove excess starch, drain, and dry thoroughly in a clean dish towel.
In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet , heat the duck fat over medium heat.
Add the potatoes and salt, stir well to coat, and cook uncovered for 4 to 5 minutes without disturbing, until browned underneath. Adjust the heat as needed so it is high enough to brown the potatoes, but not so high that the potatoes will burn at the bottom.
Flip the potatoes , and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes without disturbing, until browned underneath. Repeat the flipping and browning 2 to 3 times more, until the potatoes are cooked through and browned to your taste.
Add the garlic and parsley, sprinkle with black pepper and turn off the heat, leave the pan covered for a further 5 minutes and then serve.
Smells delicious, tastes divine!
Bon appétit…

Monday, 9 April 2018

Marvellous Martha inspired egg white omelette with avocado and spinach

Ever since the household style expert Martha Stewart appeared on television many decades ago holding a basket of blue eggs laid by her Araucana chickens, the demand for the blue egg laying breeds has skyrocketed and actually became the inspiration colour for her paint shade "Araucana Blue.Ah, Martha Stewart. The name brings to mind so many things ... from homemade apple pie to a popular television show, to volumes of lifestyle magazines, to five or six tweets a day that read like ancient hieroglyphics.
Yes, in just 77 years, she's managed to do, well, everything. She can bake. She can cook. She can sew. You name it; Martha does it. How marvellous,you say but don´t mock Martha.I´ve often wondered in those sometimes confused moments whether I was Martha or Arthur. From how to fold a fitted sheet to how to transition your career, did you know domestic doyenne Martha was one of Glamour magazine´s 10 best-dressed college girls.Yep, Martha stunned us as a model in a previous life.
Always spray your Pyrex measuring cup with cooking spray before using sticky ingredients. Learn how on "Martha Bakes". Twitter
 Before most food bloggers were born and long before Instagram was invented, Martha was already stippling and rag rolling walls and architraves in delicate shades of teal. Heck, she was the first one ploughing and tilling and mulching the soil until its pH-neutralized, aerated soil was ready for the seeds of tomorrow's lifestyle gurus.
 Well when the our dear friends Louise and Paco visited us this weekend ,I was the luckiest enough recipient of some Aracauna hens eggs from their home in Estepona.The soft, delicate turquoise hues conjure up colonial style living rooms in New England mansion houses.The simple ordinary breakfast egg, while looking at it for a minute or two, becomes literally a"palette de poulet."I marvelled at how the colour palate ranged from light sky blue to robin´s egg blue to olive and khaki.
It is so lovely to have farm fresh eggs finding their way to our  breakfast table served in a vintage glass chicken egg cup. Louise also brought us a a windfall of home grown avocados, and speaking of which I am once again reminded of the Martha Stewart inspired egg white omelette, avocado and spinach open faced sandwich I made earlier in the week.I had half a dozen egg whites left over from making a batch of mascarpone ice cream,(more on that story later) and so googled uses for left over egg whites.Apart from starching my wimple or embarking on a batch of Chocolate hazelnut macarons, which I was far too pushed busywise to attempt, I discovered that egg whites are actually good for my cholesterol.When you have high cholesterol, you’re constantly checking nutrition labels and carefully picking your foods so you don’t increase your risk of heart disease any more than it already is.When it comes to egg whites, there’s no cholesterol in the white part of an egg. A whole large egg contains 186 mg of cholesterol, but all of that is found in the yolk, or yellow part. "So I woke up this mornin´ feelin´fine somethin' tells me I'm into something good".

 My Martha inspired open faced egg white omelette with avocado and spinach

An egg white omelette sounds like a bland, rubbery, sad excuse for a breakfast or brunch, thats what I thought initially. Once made, I changed my tune."Whisk, whisk, whisk the egg whites" she said. "You might think you don’t have to stir as intensely as a regular omelette because the mixture is already homogenized, but this just isn’t so. Whisking egg whites adds air, which is the secret to a soft, fluffy omelette".Sound guidance I say.
Season generously with Flor de sal and pepper. Coat a medium nonstick pan lightly (a la Martha) with a film of sunflower oil,(Martha suggests cooking spray) a little bit will go a long way here. Using sunflower oil is a great way to add fat back in, but without the levels of cholesterol that scare people away from egg yolks.Heat over a medium heat and add egg whites.Using a rubber spatula,stir to create curds,pushing the egg whites from the edge of the pan towards the middle.Drop in a handful of baby spinach leaves and cook until set, about 3 minutes.Fold over to enclose the spinach inside.Place avocado slices on some multi grain bread,top with the egg white omelette,serve immediately.Thanks Martha,and thanks mis amigos de malagueña for the abundance of home grown and reared Esteponan produce.

Thursday, 5 April 2018

En el estilo español, roasted peppers with cod's roe

I know I am always banging on about feeling like I am being transported to a Spanish tapas bar. Well its not as silly as it sounds.Most tapas items are easy enough to make at home.A tapa is simply an appetiser - the gutsy Spanish version of a canape - but it can also double up and multiply to become a grazing-style feed. You can easily get carried away, so first decide what role tapas will play in your evening. For a pre-dinner drink, you need only prepare three types; if they are replacing dinner at least five or six will be needed, and portions increased. Here is a rather original tapas or petisco,ideal as an accompaniment to a pre dinner drink and oh so easy to make at home.In principle tapas is a slice of bread topped with any ingredients, served hot or cold, and eaten with fingers or a fork. It's something to be done before a meal, but then tapas can often replace a meal. The point of tapas is that you're not locked into a formal meal. There's very little commitment in sampling tapa. The only thing universally agreed on is how it's eaten: invariably with a drink.I have long been making something similar but with tuna and mashed potato, a classic Spanish combi.This one is perhaps even simpler. Serve them up en estilo español with a little nicely chilled La gitana manzanilla.The lady´s not for tippling.
Roasted baby peppers with cod's roe
Serves 8 with drinks.
peppers 24 (about 400g), small and mild
smoked cod's roe 200g
breadcrumbs 60g, fresh and white
olive oil 4 tbsp in mix and roast
spring onions 5 thin

Slice the top from each pepper and scrape out any seeds or cores.
Peel the skin from the cod's roe, then crumble the flesh into a mixing bowl. Put the bread into the bowl of a food processor and blitz until you have coarse crumbs, then add the olive oil and process again briefly. You will need neither salt nor pepper. Add the breadcrumbs to the cod's roe and mix well. Chop the spring onions and add to the breadcrumbs.
Stuff the cod's roe and crumbs into the little peppers and lay them in a single layer in a baking dish, then trickle lightly with olive oil. Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4 and bake for 35 minutes.

Friday, 30 March 2018

The ultimate chocolate hot cross bundt,an easter indulgence

One of the first nursery rhymes I remember learning was "Hot cross buns!Hot cross buns!One-a-penny,two-a-penny, Hot cross buns!" Well what about the the bundt?
I seem to be seeing a lot of bundt cakes across the net of late, and maybe its because its Easter but I have a feeling that these old school cakes are making a very welcome come back.
 There is no set Bundt cake recipe, so the cake is rather identified by its shape. To put it simply, a big, beautiful doughnut with ridged or fluted edges. These cakes can incorporate so many different flavours , and range from a simple sponge to chocolate or orange cakes, to the more traditional bundts, made at Easter or Christmas, that incorporate nuts spices and fruit into them.Well, after the abstinence of Lent, Easter marks the start of spring, the end of self-restraint, and I cant resist being seduced by dark chocolate.After the hardship of my first month of trying to lower my cholesterol I feel I have had forty days and forty nights of lenten punishment.ENOUGH I say, so lets dust off our mixing spoons, man our ovens and have our eggs at the ready.There is no doubt that the traditional Hot Cross Buns will remain popular for  Easter, but the appeal of non-traditional hot cross buns flavoured with dark, milk and white chocolate is on the rise.First I needed some new inspiration for hot cross buns and other Easter breads.  
I love sticky buns! and lets face it we dont have them very often, buts its Easter and whats not to like about chocolate, cinnamon, cardamom or orange sticky pull them apart buns.I have been tempted by an Ottolenghi recipe for monkey bread,but without some monkey business I can not eat this cake and keep my LDL level in check. I know I shouldn´t monkey around with recipes but I really wanted to see if I could make this more cholesterol friendly without losing a pascal offering of exciting sweet flavour combinations. 
 gooodness gracious great balls of unctuousnesss
Chocolate orange monkey bread
Monkey bread is an enriched sweet bread made with lots of pieces of soft, sugar- or syrup-coated dough all stuck together, and you eat it by tearing apart the warm, gooey, soft bread, much as a monkey might.  The loaf will keep for two days, but it needs reheating before serving.I am giving the recipe in its original form and also my lower cholesterol version.The method prep time and cooking time is the same for both versions.

Prep 10 min
Cook 3 hr (including proving)
Serves 12

200ml whole milk
90ml water
40g caster sugar
60g unsalted butter, plus 10g extra, melted, for greasing
1 tsp vanilla essence
7g sachet fast-action dried yeast
280g strong white bread flour
280g plain flour, plus a little extra for dusting
¾ tsp salt
100g dark chocolate chips

For the sauce
135g unsalted butter
120g soft dark brown sugar
Finely grated zest of 1 large orange
80g golden syrup
2 tbsp Dutch processed cocoa powder

Lower cholesterol revised recipe
1 cup almond milk
90ml freshly squeezed orange juice
I soup spoon grated orange zest
174 cup honey
2 tbsp mild olive oil, plus extra, for greasing tin
1 tsp vanilla essence
7g sachet fast-action dried yeast
380g plain flour
, plus a little extra for dusting
180g wholewheat flour
280g plain flour
¾ tsp salt
100g dark chocolate chips

For the sauce
8 tbsp olive oil
120g molasses
Finely grated zest of 1 large orange
1/4 cup honey
2 tbsp Dutch processed cocoa powder
Gently warm the first five ingredients in a small saucepan on a medium heat for a minute or two, until the butter is almost melted and the milk is tepid – take care not to overheat the mixture, otherwise you’ll kill the yeast. Turn off the heat, then whisk in the yeast and set aside for 15 minutes, until slightly frothy.
Put both flours and the salt in the bowl of a free-standing mixer with the dough hook in place, add the yeast mixture and knead for three minutes; start on the lowest speed and increase to medium, pausing every now and then to scrape down the sides so you incorporate all the flour. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and spread it out slightly. Scatter the chocolate chips in the middle, fold over the dough to enclose them, then knead for five minutes by hand, until it is springy and soft, and the chocolate is evenly distributed. Put the dough in a large floured bowl, cover with cling-film and leave in a warm spot for 45 minutes, until it has almost doubled in size. Meanwhile, brush the inside of a large bundt tin (24cm in diameter at the top, 20cm at the bottom, 8cm high) with the melted butter.
For the sauce, put all the ingredients in a small saucepan on a medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, for three to four minutes, until the butter, sugar and syrup have melted together into a thick, rich sauce.
Roll the dough into a long sausage, then cut into 24 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, then drop them one by one into the sauce, until roughly coated all over. Put the coated balls of dough in the bundt tin, building up the layers in the tin as you go. When all the dough is coated, pour any remaining sauce over the contents of the tin, then cover and leave in a warm spot for 45 minutes, until nearly doubled in size again.
Heat the oven to 160C/320F/gas 2½. Bake the monkey bread for 35 minutes, until well risen and golden brown, then leave to cool for five minutes. Put a large plate on top of the tin and invert the bread on to the plate. Lift off the tin, leave the bread to rest and cool for 10 minutes more, then serve warm.

Saturday, 24 March 2018

"ATUNA" Siganature tuna, hokey cokey fish and a poke

putting tuna on the map
Good tuna can be larger and heavier than a beautiful calf. Mediterranean chefs know this very well. The sushi men even more. And all of them  select the cut of fish that will fit their recipe, be it raw, grilled, cured or preserved.and no one knows this better than Fabio Zerbo. There should be a chart of the tuna (above) drawn up in much the same way as the charts that show all the cuts of beef.
Seeing the parts previously unknown to you and being able to differentiate the parts of the fish they come from could be as helpful as separating ribs and chop steaks in restaurants.In Portugal and Andalucia, the cult surrounding tuna, ranging from light pink to deep red, comes to restaurant tables in so many styles, guises and even in unthinkable pairings - Had anyone ever thought about enjoying a good jerk tuna or a tuna hot dog? From Lisbon to Ayamonte, ​​this is quite common. In the same category, you can find muxama,  salted air dried tuna meat which is cut into thin slices and can be washed down with a fine sherry or a chilled glass of Alvarinho.

Now Fabio Zerbo is putting tuna firmly on the map and where better to find it than at his new must stop tuna destination in Ayamonte, "ATUNA", restaurant LPA´s new mini bar serving sushi rolls,tuna tartare,a fantastic tuna hot dog and an Ahi poke bowl.A classic Hawaiian preparation, poke (pronounced poh-kay) is a salad of cubed raw fish marinated in sesame oil or soy sauce. ... traditionally made from ahi (yellowfin tuna)Fabio puts his own signature tuna to it.With Champagne, Prosecco, fine Spanish wines and beers,served American diner style out of a state of the art converted newspaper kiosk.This is is not only a relaxing way to put your feet up at any time of the day,but a great while away the happy hour with an aperitif or glass of Veuve Cliquot while waiting for a table to come up at the original LPA.

Tuesday, 20 March 2018

The Path of Lean Resistance.

Almond milk poached chicken with Puy lentil herb risotto
Does anyone poach any more?
Blimey!!!, the doc says I have to watch the cholesterol.My cholesterol level had shown a distinct movement in the wrong direction.Something,it was intimated (by the doctor,not by me) ,must be done and fast.Whats to be done? All my favourite foods are off the menu and health is the new watchword.Do you have any idea what this means to my style of cooking and eating? I am talking about a man for whom there is no pudding without a good dollop of cream.Strawberries and what? I thought as I grudgingly left the clinic.
As far as I can make out,if you want to lower your bad cholesterol level (LDL) quickly,then you´ll have to live on porridge and prunes (without the cream and brown sugar,thank you very much).On the other hand one month in on the porridge diet I´m beginning to go stir crazy.A more measured approach needs to be taken or I´ll lose my spirtle.Out with the butter and the cream,and the duck fat,and the beef dripping,and the sausages and eggs and bacon of course. And well.... so many other delicious and wonderful favourites.In with those fibre filled pulses,beans and grains,root veg and greens, spinach,broccoli cabbage and kale. Hurrah.In with the omega 3,oily fish,oily fish,oily fish,especially the likes of salmon and mackerel.Chicken without the skin on, no more frying,aaaaaaaggggggh no chips?.Low fat this,no fat that.Oven roasting,braising, baking and boiling and poaching are all alternatives to pan fried and deep fried. Careful choices of oils and of course the odd glass(ONE,three,five,seven or nine) of "Red" wine.Oh no.Anyway cometh the hour, cometh the cook, as I always say, it is not a problem, its a challenge.The reality is I am left to face the long dark night of dietary rectitude on my own.Its down with the reference books and on with the thinking cap, to keep a modicum of pleasure in the life of those I cook for and myself.
In a case like this, necessity is said to be the mother of invention. I certainly hope so when I put it to the test.My Triglycerides  (triggley what? triglynounsatrated? Tyrannosaurus?) are "well high". If I dont act according to doctors orders my liver will be "real bad".That well known proverb, implies that when you are left with no other option but to complete a certain task or live through a certain situation you manage to do so by any means.Another which comes to mind is "Where there is a will there is a way", so modifying my diet in order to lower cholesterol is the brief,and so be it.The  implication is simple, that when you are left with no other option but to complete a certain task or live through a certain situation you manage to do so by any means it.So what can stay and what must go? Ironically, when I wrote in my recent post,("A beurre necessity") the proper ratio of butter to toast is about 2:1, I did not know what was just around the corner.That butter sauces represent some of the highest achievements of culinary science (easy to make too),that the proper way to health and happiness is to eat lots of absolutely everything,well maybe not? I am beginning to feel like I am  being punished for a crime I have not committed.
One of the first things that came to mind was that kitchen staple - Ahhh o famoso molho béchamel!!!!.Bechamel sauce (or Sauce Béchamel if you are French) is one of those workhorses in the kitchen we tend to take for granted, until life throws a monkey-wrench into the works … like having to transition to a low cholesterol diet!Armed with cartons of oat milk, almond milk and rice milk( none of which have to contain the dreaded soy) I have all my options for sweet and savoury covered.
Remember when eggs and butter were deemed to be bad for you because they could raise your cholesterol levels? Cholesterol only became a household term in the 1960s.Who was the killjoy who told us eggs are thought to be taboo when it comes to the topic of cholesterol.Well a little bit of good news, eating eggs in moderation, about 4-6 eggs per week, is acceptable, even for people with high cholesterol.Research has shown that people who eat eggs in moderation don’t show an increase in their cholesterol levels compared to those who eliminate eggs completely from their diet.There is a key word through all this "moderation."Don’t start piling on the three-egg omelettes and if you’re still worried about eating eggs, consider egg whites alone. They’re still loaded with protein, but without so much cholesterol -Par eggscellence.
"One important point to keep in mind: How you prepare your food is almost as important as which type of food you eat.It's always best to broil, grill, or steam foods."
So far I have assembled a new portfolio of dishes made with ingredients I love.With the help of multi grain breads I can make butterless sandwiches and bruschettas with avocado, mushrooms and aubergines.If you are looking for ideas on how to incorporate mushrooms into your cholesterol-lowering diet, there are plenty of ways to add them to appetizers.Im going nuts and bananas about my new plan.I love them both and am incorporating them amicably into the regime.Oh well all is not lost,I must say that you learn some interesting things along the way.Brazil nuts are one of my favourite snacks, and I’ve just discovered a reason to eat more of them. A single ‘dose’ of just 4 Brazil nuts can significantly improve cholesterol balance – an effect that starts within 6 hours and lasts for at least 30 days!
Anyway here you will find some of the fruits of my labours.I won´t make any claims for purity in these matters.As you will see there is the odd bit of slippage here and there,but they´re a step in the right direction.At least.I hope so. It’s like me insisting that I will be beach-body ready by the summer while maintaining my cast-iron commitment to doing no exercise and eating what I want. Solomon himself could not resolve that one.
A few tips to start......
Bananas,nuts,strawberries ,cherries
Potatoes are fine just dont peel them
Cook more with sweet potato
When it comes to baking replace butter with olive oil
Oily fish at least twice a week
Select leaner cuts of meat and smaller portions
lean beef: chuck, sirloin or loin
lean pork cuts: the tenderloin or loin chop
lamb: if you must, cuts from the leg, arm and loin
ground beef that contains 90 percent or higher lean meat

Almond milk poached chicken 
with Puy lentil herb risotto (main picture)
 Serves 2
500ml almond milk
2 bay leaves
3 spring onions, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon sea salt flakes
2 x 220g chicken breast fillets, trimmed
1/2 cup (140g) natural Greek-style yoghurt
1/8 cup (30ml) extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and cracked black pepper
1/4 cup (80g) smoked almonds, chopped
Place the almond milk, bay, onion and salt in a large deep-sided frying pan over high heat and bring to the boil. Add the chicken, reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for 12–15 minutes or until cooked through. Remove chicken from the pan and set aside to cool. Strain the poaching liquid, reserving ¼ cup (60ml). Shred chicken and place in a large bowl with reserved liquid while you cook the risotto Place the yoghurt, oil, salt and pepper in a small bowl and mix to combine. Add the chicken and toss to combine. Divide the risotto among two plates,and top with the chicken and almonds. Serves 4.
3 cloves garlic

1 medium onion finely chopped
extra virgin olive oil
35 g (1.5 oz )risotto rice
35 g (1.5 oz puy lentils
small bunch of parsley with stalks, coarsely chopped
Vegetable stock
2 handfuls baby spinach leaves
In a pan sautée the garlic and onion in some olive oil,for about two minutes until transparent.Add the rice and lentils and sautée again until nicely coated.Add the parsley stalks and sufficient stock to cover by about 3cms.Bring to boil,then reduce heat, cover and simmer gently for 20-25 minutes until the lentils are tender,Check from time to time 
for the moisture content and if getting dry add some more stock.Stir in the chopped spinach and allow to wilt before serving.

Chicken satay
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
2 cloves of garlic,peeled and crushed
small thumb of ginger peeled and grated
1 stem lemongrass,shredded
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 small hot piri piri chillies,finely chopped
1 teaspoon good quality curry powder
150g peanut or almond butter
3 heaped tbsp chopped fresh coriander
tsp sugar

Soften and very lightly brown the chopped shallot,garlic,ginger and lemongrass in the oil over a moderate heat.Stir in the chillies and curry powder and continue cooking for a couple of minutes.Add the nut butter, 250ml water and bring to the boil.Season with coriander and sugar to taste.Serve as a dipping sauce for chicken skewers.

Lets get ready to crumble
Is it a cake? Is it a pudding,no its.....
Apricot crumble cake
I was determined to work the new wonderdrug oatmeal in somehow.The classic Atholl Brose or Cranachan were the front runners,but they consist largely of cream alas.Apples seemed the natural candidate to be paired with oatmeal for a crumble,but then I stumbled upon the commander in chief of comfort food, Nigel Slaters apricot crumble cake.“Ooh I say!”, with a bit of adjustment swapping flour in the mix for olive oil and meddling with the topping I was on to something that would lower those Triglycerides
 It’s a naughtier version of apple crumble, but, somehow, refreshingly different.It's worth baking for the smell alone!  Buttery, almondy, cakeyness.I have convinced myself that it is healthy eating (well I can,can´t I?). It goes down very well with a pot of tea of a rainy afternoon.
250g dried apricots
3/4 cup olive oil
175g golden caster sugar
2 eggs
80g ground almonds
175g self-raising flour
A pinch ground cinnamon
A few drops vanilla extract

For the crumble
100g plain flour
75g butter
2tbsp demerara sugar
3tbsp jumbo oats
2tbsp flaked almonds
A little cinnamon and extra demerara
Sugar for the crust, and perhaps a little icing sugar to finish

Preheat the oven to 160˚C/gas mark 3. Line the base of a 22cm round cake tin with baking parchment. Put the apricots in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave them to cool a little.

Beat the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until the sugar is completely dissolved.
Add the lemon zest and pinch of salt.Add the olive oil little by little, mixing well after each addition.
Fold in the ground almonds, flour and cinnamon, then add the vanilla extract. Scrape the mixture into the tin and smooth the surface.
Drain the apricots and add them to the top of the cake mixture. Make the crumble topping: blitz the flour and butter to crumbs in a food processor, then add the demerara sugar, oats and flaked almonds and mix lightly. Remove the food processor bowl from the stand and add a few drops of water. Shake the bowl a little-or run a fork through the mixture-so that some of the crumbs stick together like small pebbles. This will give a more interesting mix of textures.
Scatter this loosely over the cake, followed by a pinch of cinnamon and a little more demerara. Bake for about an hour, checking for doneness with a skewer; it should come out clean.
Remove the cake from the oven and set aside. Dust with a little icing sugar if you wish and slice as required. The cake will keep well for three or four days.

    Friday, 16 March 2018

    Rolling, rolling, rolling, the legendary wagon wheel biscuit

    "It's more than a biscuit, it's a mighty big snack!"
    Who´s old enough to remember this ground breaking biscuit from the 1950s ?...... A little bit retro and whole lot more delicious, inspired by memories of the school tuck shop I set out to see whether I could recreate the legendary wagon wheel biscuit, and give them the taste I remember with an echo of a distant age of giant biscuits and the history that comes with them. There once was a mighty biscuit baron called Garfield Weston. An entrepreneurial Canadian, he made a fortune out of supplying biscuits to the forces during the war and had a facility in Slough. Mr Weston had three sons. One son inherited the UK business, one had the Canadian, and the other Weston got Australia. Which is why in each country one can find the Wagon Wheel.Reputed to be the brain child of Garry Weston, the UK son, they were originally sold in the UK as Weston's Wagon Wheels.
     "A taste for adventure."
     For those of you not up to speed with the wagon wheel,they are a chocolate-coated biscuit and marshmallow sandwich sold with packaging that capitalized on the Wild West,which with programmes like Wagon Train, Rawhide, Bonanza, The Lone Ranger and The Virginian were popular in the media at the time.There is a top and bottom biscuit layer lined with raspberry or strawberry jam(Australian version only), with marshmallow in the middle holding them together, then the whole thing is coated in chocolate. The soft biscuit layers have a bit of crunch to them. The centre is white.

    The packaging I remember, originally sold in the UK as Weston's Wagon Wheels.

    The size of the UK one was reduced in width in the 1980s after the move to Wales, from 79 mm to 74 mm. At the same time, the British Wagon Wheel lost its crimped edge. Australian Wagon Wheels continue to have their crimped edge (as of 2005.)The original Wagon Wheel carried no jam.One with jam accompanying the mallow is sold in Australia, the UK, Canada and in Ireland. In Australia, the jam is described as "apple and plum" jam. The jam is directly on the bottom biscuit, then there's a layer of mallow. In the British jam version, called a "Jammie Wagon Wheel", which weighs 38g, the jam doesn't touch the biscuit: there's the biscuit, then a layer of mallow, then a layer of jam, then a layer of mallow. In Canada, the jam used appears to be raspberry.
      "If there's a bigger bite, it can't be found."
      During the 1960s the slogan in Australia was "It's more than a biscuit, it's a mighty big snack!" "Eat the Wagon Wheel!" was the catchphrase of a campaign where viewers were informed of what items were typically available as snacks in countries where Wagon Wheels were not available. The voice over would then ask which you would rather eat. Then the reply would come from, for instance, one of the pickled herrings on offer, "Eat the Wagon Wheel!" This giant marshmallow and jam-filled biscuit  I turned out was so much bigger than the Wagon Wheels I remember from my childhood.'Yes, yes, but what does it taste like?' I tend to hear you cry, waiting for a review. Well its most definitely a Wagon Wheel. All the classic components are there, the chocolate flavoured coating, which appeared a bit darker than the original I remembered, more cocoa perhaps?  However there is a definite difference and I think this comes mainly from the jam and its placement. In my Wagon Wheel  it is applied directly to the bottom of both biscuits. The result is definitely a challenge for the palate. I even believed at one point that I detected a Raspberry pip, even though I knew that this was impossible, a cunning fantasy woven for me by antipodean biscuit makers.
        Bearing in mind they were comparing something from memory.The biscuit was spot on but should be thinner.Authenticity~wise there should be no jam, this is something that should be left to the Australians.The mallow was too squidgy.This was my fault. In attempting home made marshmallow, which failed miserably, I would suggest to anyone attempting to make home made wagon wheels that you use a commercial brand of marsh mallows and melt them down.I have since found a recipe (below) which is very different to the one I used and potentially seems pretty sound if you have patience.My chocolate covering, all agreed, was delicious but once again for authenticity it should be milk chocolate.My wagon wheels weighed in at nearly double the weight (5oz) of the original specification(3.5oz)!!!.I kept to the original diameter of 79mm.
        Home made wagon wheels
        makes 6
        140 g pure icing sugar
        140 g cornflour
        400 g caster sugar
        1 tablespoon liquid glucose
        2 tablespoons powdered gelatine
        2 egg whites
        75 g cornflour

        Sift the icing sugar and cornflour into a bowl. Grease and line a 4 cm-deep, 18 cm x 25 cm ceramic baking tray. Dust the inside of the pan with a generous amount of the icing sugar mix, setting the reminder aside for later. In a small bowl sprinkle the gelatine over 200 ml cold water to allow it to dissolve and soften.  
        Combine the caster sugar, glucose and 200 ml water in a small saucepan over a low heat. Stir constantly, until the sugar completely dissolves. Increase the heat to medium, bring the mix to the boil and cook until it reaches 120°C on a sugar thermometer.
        Meanwhile, while the sugar syrup is cooking, start beating the egg whites. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the whites on low until they become frothy. Increase the speed to high and continue to beat until they're thick and fluffy.
        As soon as the sugar syrup reaches 120°C, and without stopping the motor, slowly pour the syrup into the egg whites in a steady stream. Continue to beat on high.
        Pour the gelatine and water into the saucepan used to make the sugar syrup, scraping the bowl to ensure there's none of the mix left behind. Place over a very low heat and stir until the gelatine is completely dissolved. Due to the residual heat left in the saucepan this should only take a few moments. Without stopping the motor, pour the gelatine mixture into the whites. Continue to whip for eight minutes or until the mixture thickens and becomes glossy. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan. Smooth the top with a wet palette knife, then set aside and allow to dry for three to six hours, uncovered. If you're kitchen is too warm, you can also chill the mix in the fridge for 1 hour, then allow it to sit, uncovered for an extra hour. When done it should feel dry to the touch.Once set,cut out six 8cm discs with a biscuit cutter.

        225g butter
        75g caster sugar
        1 egg yolk
        1 tbsp golden syrup or maple syrup
        210g plain flour 
        Cream together the butter and sugar and then add the egg yolk and syrup.Fold in the flour and mix to a smooth dough.Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
        Roll out to 2mm thick.Cut out 12 x 8cm discs,allowing two per portion,and bake for 10 to 15 minutes until golden.allow to cool.

        100g good quality plain or ideally milk chocolate
        150ml double cream
        50g butter
        Melt the chocolate with the cream in a bain - marie over simmering water.Once melted,add the butter and stir in.Remove from the heat to prevent the butter from becoming too liquid.The butter should have melted and emulsified into the chocolate mixture.If the mixture is too thin leave to cool to thicken slightly.

        Spread some jam (Australian version) fairly generously over 6 biscuits.Sit a marshmallow disc on each then spread some more jam on top.Finish with another biscuit to complete the "sandwich".
        For a perfect chocolate finish,spoon the chocolate mixture on in stages.First sit the biscuits on a wire rack and set over abaking tray or plate and spoon some of the chocolate topping over to cover completely Refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes until set.Remove and turn the biscuits upside down on the rack.Spoon more of the chocolate over the biscuits to cover.Refrigerate again until set.Remove and spoon over any remaining chocolate(you might need to re-use some of the topping from the tray)for an even more luscious finish.
        good luck-Yeehaw!!